What's it about Sayulita?
Definitely, my favorite place for a getaway when I was living in PV...
Sayulita, a "pueblo de pescadores" (fishermen's village) is located just off the highway from Puerto Vallarta to Guadalajara, about 45min north of PV. Its main village sits right on the beach, with several homes spread out north and south of it, nestled into the dense jungle and partly with beautiful private beaches.
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It is a melting pot of mexican and foreigners, with their one main common pastime.....surfing.
The bay of Sayulita has one break that fits every surfer's level, and most of the days one can find a wave there, even if it may be small. One surf school and board rental after the other on the beach, in between them typical beach shacks and food places, vendors of pareos, carved animal figures, huichol art, selfmade jewelery, and everything else that gives you feel true Mexican beach feeling.
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To me Sayulita always seemed to be a perfectly integrated spot, not a mexican village invaded by expats. The majority of native Sayulita habitants speak perfectly english, and lots of them work in tourism, as well as the foreigners, who I dare to say are also trying hard to speak decent spanish.
Exploring the streets and shops is well worth the time; you will find the most unique prersents for yourself and your loved ones. It is a boom village, although I am confident it will somehow preserve its special, "boho-chic" character.
Another surfing attraction is SUP, a relatively new type of surfing or distance paddeling on a longer, wider and thicker board with a paddle. Lots of fun, and very easy to learn. It originated in Hawaii and the South Pacific, but in the past couple of years became very popular all over. Here is a listing of surf schools and rentals: http://sayulitalife.com/surfschools.htm
Sayulita is also a village where environmental sustainabilty is not only an abstract word. The village is much further advanced than some larger mexican city. It has a recycling center, and the local community regularly organises beach and reef cleanings. The locals know of the non-financial value of the piece of land they live on, appreciate nature and conservate it, for themselves, their children, the visitors of now and the future.
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Speaking of children, there is another pretty unique thing about the town. The Colegio Costa Verde is an ecological, community-oriented, multicultural and bilingual private school, teaching children in English and Spanish, with a heavy portion of scholarships for Mexican children from local families. It all started as a couple of expat parents thought, sending their kids to the international school, at one hour distance in PV, is not an option for kindergarden age and primary school. Especially as Sayulita is in a different time zone and technically an hour "behind" PV, so children would have had to leave Sayulita at 5.30am to be at school at 7.30am. They did their homework, and as every private school in Mexico needs to have a portion of scholarships for Mexican children, started raising funds in addition to the tuition of their own kids. The school started more than 6 years ago, and is now going from kinder garden to 6th grade, bilingual and with a big focus on teaching the children in a "green" way. They learn with the examples of the environment around them, so for instance to conserve the ocean, which they love as they are practically born with a board attached to their feet. Setting up compost and learning to not just throw the plastic bottle out of the car window forms equally part of the education. I am friends with some of the parents there, and am personally supporting the school. I know there is never enough donations, so if you are interested, read on further.
Living in Sayulita for some is living the dream... I never moved there as honestly I was too lazy to do the move, never quite sure how much longer I would stay. And I probably would have had to give up my little red one... Sayulita is awesome, but cobblestone, dust in winter and partly mud in summer. Fine with a 4x4, not fine with my topless frenchie.This being said, also, if you plan to stay there, don't even consider bringing heels. Havaianas are just fine!
There is plenty of real estate available, both in town, on lovingly named gringo hill, and in the outskirts.
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A special development is Punta Sayulita. Planned and being buildt in a sustainable way, with special attention to materials, and integration in landscape, it is site for the future dream villas of Sayulita.
But as most of us, including me, will be returning as temporary guest only, have a look at those places to stay:
Petit Hotel d'Hafa - right in the center of town, a lovely 6 bedroom boutique hotel.
Villa Amor - as the name says, this hotel is probably the wedding hotel in Sayulita. A good friend of mine got married there too, and had literally the day of her life.
Haramara - located a bit south of the village center, this is a spectacular yoga retreat on a secluded stretch of the coast. Apparently Jennifer Aniston enjoyed some time here, too.
Casa Ninamu & Casa O Te Miti - A special place to me is the home of Anne and Johann. An amazing couple, co-founders of the Colegio Costa Verde, who built their dream home on the beach and moved their family (now three boys and four dogs) from NY to this little paradise. Part of their house can be rented - very recommendable, and the private beach comes with it! Honeymoon or wedding, to me it just the perfect venue.
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Foodie places (and not to forget about the drinks)
The breakfast place for locals and visitors alike is famous ChocoBanana... Run by a canadian long time Sayulita resident, it offers mexican breakfast as well as delicious pastries, coffee specialties and, the name giving choco bananas, iced bananas dipped in chocolate sauce.
Don Pedro's - The number one restaurant in town sits right on the beach, also offering service of beach chair rental and food there. Seafood, pizza, salads and delicious ceviche are on the menu, the all open restaurant also has an upper level for private functions. Should you be planning a wedding there, the cater a beautiful palapa on the tip of the south end of the bay, quite a setting for a ceremony.
The juice stand on Calle Delfines - Another breakfast option - getting a freshly squeezed juice or joghurt with fruit and granola at this little street vendor... Very healthy!
On the boardwalk, in another little food place between C. Marlin and C. Delfines.... the best paninis i tried on that stretch of the coast.
In terms of nightlife, there is a lot! Around the Plaza you will find one bar after the other. I won't give you a list or recommendations, as in my opinion going out and hitting the bars for me is much more fun in the right company, so for me, any bar is good I guess. Viva la noche!
Shopping
Don't think a couple of pesos are enough ... You will be surprised of the variety and options for shopping. To clarify all misconceptions, just because it is Mexico, it does not have to be cheap! But, you get value, and definitely in a different atmosphere than if buying it in th US or even online...
Pachamamma - boutique gallery, run by a French family, who loved for decades on a house boat around the world, you will find Tahitian pearls on leather cords, their own design brand of leather handbags, dresses and shawls and more treasures.
Galeria Tanana - Named after the Huichol goddess of life “Tanana,” this gallery specializes in Huichol art and high fashion jewelry at a center dedicated to preserving the Huichol culture
Revolucion del sueño - the revolution of the dream... A Sayulita own casual wear brand, located in a side street parallel to the boardwalk. Cool tshirts, bags and more.
Joyeria Sol - handcrafted jewelery from economic to not so economic, with beautiful gems and unique design. Located one block from the main square.
"the unknown jewelery shop" - Right across the jewelery shop is another one, that I unfortunately cannot name, but usually it has displays in the windows and on the sidewalk... Here as well one finds a lot of unique pieces, and the shop also sells little boxes made from oranges, with embedded flowers.
Buddha Mar - Asian inspired clothing, jewelery, bags and more. Right next to Don Pedro's, same building as Budha Mar bar
Bikini post on the street - located on the opposite corner of Joyeria Sol. There is a small window shop, where a girl sells hand knit bikinis. Quite unique, you can pick the wool, and its tailored to your sizes. For sure you will be the only one with this model!
La Hamaca - traditional Mexican fold art and textiles...beautful tablecloths, cushions, bags, hammocks (obviously....)... perfect for home decor.
Writing about all those shops now, I regret not having spent more money there....but hey, just another reason to go back and visit Sayulita!
When to go?
Basically anytime of the year. High season of this part of the pacific coast is Basically from US thanksgiving time until easter week. Temperatures range from 23 to 33 degree C in those months, water gets as cold as 21C/72F on the surface. Rainy season is considered June to October, shoulder season, and still dry, would be May. Temps there are easily a 5-8 C more, water gets nice and bathtub warm with max 28C/86F. If you can, avoid major Mexican or US holidays....too crowded for my liking.
And if you look for a special reason, think about going for the 4th Annual Punta Sayulita Classic. Lots of fun, cool people, great vibe.
Here is some images of the 2011 race:
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How to get there?
Fly into Puerto Vallarta Intl. Airport (PVR), then go north to Sayulita. There is buses right at the road by the airport (6 Pesos), alternatively a taxi will take you for about 900 Pesos. You can also rent a car at the airport, just make sure of the usual tourist traps, so scratch off the agency's bumper sticker.